It has been an action packed year and there are a lot of projects I need to get everyone caught up on! Last winter my wife and I decided to upgrade our bed/mattress to a king-size. Finding a mattress was the easy part, but holy-sticker-shock-batman, the cost of modern rustic king size bed frames was ridiculous!

Not only did the cost get me going but the build quality on some of these units was marginal at best. My wife and I shopped around but we ultimately agreed that spending $3000 on a "nice" bed frame wasn't something we were comfortable doing. While money was part of the problem, it was the build quality and fear that the bed frames would creek, groan, or come apart over time.

Instead, I opted to fire up Fusion 360 and get to work designing a modern rustic bed frame based on the West Elm Alexa Bed Set for our new king-size mattress. I decided to make the design as accessible to everyone as I could. What I mean by this is I made the following key design decisions:

• To base the design around readily available materials you can get at big box stores and lumber yards.
• Incorporate construction and build techniques that don't require a plethora of specialty woodworking tools.
• Be sensitive to how long projects like this can take - not everyone wants to build for half a year!
• Honor woodworking design best practices so materials can move seasonally as humidity levels change.
• Make the construction and assembly of the bed frame strong so that creeks and groans don't occur at the most inopportune times! 
• Create a timeless design that isn't part of mass America's "throwaway" culture.

My bed frame turned out great and I dialed in the construction process along the way. I experimented with different fasteners, assembly techniques, and tools to arrive at a build process that is efficient and economical. After sleeping on the bed frame and getting lots of positive comments from friends and family I decided to make the build plans available to everyone. If you want a bed frame that is a fraction of the cost of commercial options, features better build quality, and will stand the test of time then these plans are for you! 

I designed the build plans to be as easy and intuitive to use as possible so that you're not wasting time! The bed frame build is divided into subassemblies so that work is focused on specific sections of the bed frame. The subassemblies consist of the frame, footboard, headboard, legs, and final assembly. 

The plans incorporate a number of user friendly features that make construction straightforward:

• Interactive PDF document with a navigable table of contents so you can easily find what you're looking for.
• A comprehensive bill of materials that specifies everything you need to build your bed frame.
• Cut and layout diagrams that show you exactly how and where to take material from so that you're not left wasting material. 
• Step-by-step instructions that clearly detail how to make the bed frame.
• Detailed drawings of each part and assembly which provide further construction clarity.
• Build photos of each step so you can see how an actual bed frame was built. 

Q: What tools do I need?

First and foremost, I designed the bed frame so that it could be built with minimal tools. The main ones you’ll need are a miter saw, table saw, jig-saw, drill, and C-clamps. No planers, jointers, or other fancy tools are required.

To make matters simple here’s a complete list of the tools you'll need with clickable links to shop so that you can plan accordingly:
DISCLAIMER: Some links below may be affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you; if you purchase products from these links, we will earn a small commission.  ​

Q: How much does it cost though to build this bed frame?

So let’s talk overall price. Compared to those “nice” expensive bed frames, the total amount you’ll spend building your own bed frame will be a fraction of the cost.
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The bed frame I built was constructed from solid hickory and I spent right around $750 for everything (and this was in early 2021 when material prices were crazy!). 

​The total you’ll invest will depend largely on the hardwood you select for your build. Need to build uber-cheap? Consider pine. If money is no object, pick an exotic hardwood and you’ll have a showstopper under your mattress.

Here's a Wood Species Cost Comparison to make things easy on you:

​Q: Where should I buy materials?

Most home improvement stores such as Menards, Home Depot, and Lowes will have everything you need. Certain species of hardwood plywood will need to be sourced from a local lumber supplier depending on your area's local availability.

​Q: How long does the bed frame take to build?

Build time varies entirely based on your building experience. However, a good amount of time to budget for is 40hrs.

​Q: What should I do if I don’t understand part of the instructions?

Please reread and review all instructions and drawings. The last thing I want is for you to be completely stuck and not know how to proceed, so if you still need help please send an email to: Paul.Olesen@workshopchronicles.com and I'll get back to you within three business days.

Check out our latest video update on our DIY energy efficient home addition build and remodel in Wisconsin. Chapter 1 highlights include deck removal, tree cutting, boiler relocation, rock removal, tree stump excavation, discussions with our energy consultant, reaching out to HVAC contractors, and having our utilities marked by Diggers Hotline. All-in-all we had a productive couple weeks where we focused on preparing the build site for excavation. 

Removing the old deck went smoothly and we were able to save a significant amount of the old lumber by disassembling the deck as opposed to cutting it apart. We've already used some of that lumber in other projects around the property which has both been cost effective and convenient.

Conversations with our energy consultant have primarily revolved around sorting out design details and developing a fluid plan that considers both new and old portions of the home. I'll have more to report on this front once I've had time to process and finalize many of the details.

I hope you enjoy Chapter 1 and please let me know if you have questions or interests in specific areas. Creating a video series is something new for me and I expect it will evolve as we go along. Thanks for watching!

Paul

Happy spring everyone! I'm happy to share with you our first project intro (and a big one at that) - the addition build and remodel of our home that my wife and I have been planning since we first laid eyes on our place. I spent most of the winter planning this out, working with our architect and energy consultant, and searching for concrete contractors in preparation to get this project rolling.

What Are We Building?
 We're going to build a 32x38' addition with an attached 10x24' greenhouse. The basement level of the addition will be the garage and above it will be master suite, office, bedroom, and laundry.

As for the remodel, we'll be revising the existing floor plan, finishing the basement, and making energy efficient upgrades to improve the home's envelope.

Who is Building and Remodeling It?
The core team will be my father-in-law, my dad, and myself with a lot of support from our better halves. We'll also be leveraging the expertise of numerous technical experts in their various fields and trades.

How Are We Building It?
I'm focused on building the most energy efficient structure I can and employing sustainable or energy efficient solutions that will last the lifetime of the home. It would be easy to say we're going to build and retrofit to net zero, but the reality is that probably isn't going to be economically feasible - for a host of reasons that we'll cover later. In reality, we'll be trading off cost, energy efficiency, and doing the best we can.

Why go as efficient as possible? 
In order to curb climate change, action needs to be taken to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Around 20% of greenhouse gas emissions come from residential buildings in the United States. Designing and retrofitting buildings to be more efficient and employing renewable energy solutions is a great way to help drive these emissions down.

While I admit that building anything new doesn't help reduce emissions - we as humans have needs, desires, and wants that also need to be considered. I believe there are sustainable ways to build, and in our case, we need or desire certain features that will support our businesses and family. Telling homeowners or consumers that building nothing at all or building a home without windows as the only ways to make a home efficient isn't going to drive market adoption of this key issue. Consumers need options that are not massive departures from their current standards of living.

My main goal with this project is to teach and show how someone can build efficiently, discuss design decisions, and show that building an efficient house or addition can in large part be done on your own. DIYing your house or addition is no small task, but it will allow you to do more with your money. I also want to educate consumers and push the building industry to offer more efficient solutions. 

All that said, check out our intro video below! My goal is to publish chapter updates consisting of 1-2 weeks of progress (be sure to hit that subscribe button) and share more detail as the project gets rolling. I'm also planning on becoming an expert GoPro filmer! ​

I captured a ton of footage for my Polaris SKS 850 review and wanted to share it without the review audio. I for one love the sweet sound of a two-stroke on its pipe and am sure you will too. I had a lot of fun experimenting with my Go Pro Hero 9 and trying out different camera angles while I was out riding. 

I headed out to West Yellowstone Montana in early January to get this footage and was super fortunate with respect to snow conditions and sunshine. I haven't been on many trips where we had three days of sunshine in a row! 

The Polaris SKS 850 146" was a blast to ride! I can't wait to head out West again and spend more time working with the sled and camera. I hope you enjoy the video!

​- Paul

​Why the SKS?
I have a passion for deep powder but face the reality of living in the midwest, which results in 2-4 trips to the mountains per year and the rest of the time spent riding in Wisconsin or Michigan. I owned a mountain sled in the past; however, I wanted something less biased to the mountains so that I would be more likely to ride in the midwest. Not many years ago, I used to look at sleds in the "crossover" class as a joke when it came to deep snow. However, the research I did on more recent offerings from Polaris, Cat, and Skidoo suggested they performed well in the deep.

​Quite honestly, choosing a crossover was not something I saw coming when I started my research, and even more surprising was landing on the Polaris. My initial desire was to get an Arctic Cat Alpha or the new Ski-Doo Summit Turbo. However, neither seemed particularly practical for Midwest riding.

Once I started comparing crossovers, the big drivers were power, mountain sled pedigree, weight, and track options. Power is self-explanatory because who doesn't want as much as they can get? In terms of handling, I like how easy mountain sleds are to get on one ski and how well they balance, so I didn't want to stray from a predominantly mountain chassis. This meant I was looking for a relatively narrow ski stance and mountain ergonomics. Weight was on my radar because the lighter it is, the easier it is to maneuver and get unstuck. The track and its corresponding lug height are critical when it comes to putting power to the snow. I knew I needed to compromise and felt that I would be setting myself up for better performance in hardpack and hopefully longer track life by going with a less aggressive lug height. I also believe shorter lugs, which lead to higher track speeds, can be competitive with taller lugs, which results in lower track speeds for a given engine configuration.

All that said, I started looking at Polaris because of their new 850 engine. From my research, it produced more power than the Cat 800, as it should being an 850, and was comparable to the Skidoo. Most importantly, though, it seemed like a significant improvement in robustness compared to their previous 800 engines. I like the Polaris 850 compared to the Skidoo because Polaris went with a semi-direct injection system that naturally uses fewer parts, resulting in less weight and complexity. Lastly, since the engine has been out since 2019, I felt comfortable giving it a try since I haven't read about too many significant issues.  

The Axys chassis was intriguing to me; however, I'd had no first-hand experience riding one before buying my SKS. I've been a long time Cat rider and have heard many people talk about how similar the chassis were to one another. Having ridden Cats for so long, I quite honestly just wanted to experience something different. Simply put, the SKS consists of an RMK front end and the IGX rear skid and suspension.
From a weight standpoint, all the crossovers, unfortunately, weighed in heavier than their pure mountain counterparts. The SKS, according to the spec sheets, suffered the smallest weight increase penalty out of all the crossovers. I begrudgingly accepted the weight penalty in exchange for what I've learned is a better performing rear suspension. I'm also optimistic that I can put the sled on a diet and work the weight back down in the future. 
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Having started riding deep powder when a 141" track was considered long, I had a lot of respect for track lengths in the 140s and felt I would get a little better midwest performance out of the 146 without sacrificing much mountain performance. When looking at track length and track options, I felt the SKS offered the right combination. I've ridden many mountain sleds that featured 2.25" lugs that worked very well, so taller offerings didn't enamor me. I also believe the 2.25" track will hold up better when deep snow isn't plentiful. 
To wrap up why I went with the SKS over the Arctic Cat Riot and Skidoo's crossover, I believe it is the best combination for my deep powder trips and regular midwest rides. I wanted the most powerful, reliable engine I could get, a capable mountain chassis, the lowest weight, and a track that would work well in various conditions.

My Modification Strategy
While I'd love to try out many aftermarket parts, the reality is they're expensive, void the warranty, and without getting a chance to ride the sled, it is hard to decide what is necessary. In my experience, it takes time to get to know the machine; each rider likes a little different setup, and there are a lot of factory adjustments that can be made before aftermarket parts are necessary. That said, my modification strategy for this year is primarily driven by durability and safety.
 
SKS mods I knew I needed to make
The most frustrating thing about buying anything is when you know going in that you'll need to make some changes, especially when the machine is brand new. Unfortunately, the SKS, in my opinion, wasn't going to be perfect out of the gate. Through reading various forums and Facebook groups, I learned that a large contingent of SKS riders had problems with track ratcheting in deep snow. Riders were having to run their track tension super tight to limit the ratcheting, but the problem was not going away even then. Not only is this annoying, but it will cause the track to wear out prematurely. The cause of the issue is the use of a subpar driver, the gear-like drum that engages and rotates the track. The factory driver probably works fine for trail applications, but it is not remotely adequate for deep snow applications. 

To resolve the track ratcheting issue, I opted to install an aftermarket anti-ratchet driver. These drivers feature longer teeth and more positive engagement with the track windows. The installation of the driver isn't necessarily complicated. However, it does require a lot of disassembly.

In conjunction with the anti-ratchet driver, I also installed an anti-stab kit, which helps prevent tree stumps or other objects from pushing the track up into the tunnel and causing the rails to skewer the track by stabbing through the track's windows. I don't think this is a mandatory mod, but I felt it was cheap insurance. ​

The bumpers on the SKS and many Polaris sleds look like they could be broken if you stare at them too hard. Experience has taught me that the bumpers are not places to sacrifice strength because they come in handy when deflecting trees or when you ask your buddies to lift your sled out of a deep trench. I opted to install aftermarket bumpers to protect my tuned pipe and my tunnel. ​

​I also opted to install a tether switch right away because I believe they're an essential safety device for you and the machine when riding out West.

Overall I was thoroughly impressed with how the 146" SKS performed. It was super easy to maneuver, and power was on tap. Initial clutch settings were off, and the engine was over-revving at the specified weights suggested by Polaris and Bikeman. For the 9-10,000' elevation range we were riding in, I found I had to add 2.8 grams of clutch weight over the base weight recommendation of 66 grams. In total, I was running 68.8 grams, which consistently had the motor turning between 8250 and 8300 RPMs during extended pulls. Once I adjusted the clutch weights, the engine and clutch setup worked incredibly well. Backshifting was very quick, and I never felt like the engine was out of sync with my throttle commands. 

The factory gearing, I felt, was very close too. The only time I ever felt there was a little "spool up" time between engine and track was when I was at a dead stop and trying to get unstuck. In this scenario, there's a lot of track resistance, and the engine has to rev to build power, so there's a slight delay. However, whenever operating in the powerband, the engine was always able to pull hard.

Deep snow maneuvering was precise, and, compared to past experiences, this chassis was much easier to initiate and maintain maneuvers. I felt getting the sled to sidehill, turnout of climbs, and maneuver, when it was more or less vertical, were all easier than previous sleds I've ridden. One especially apparent characteristic was how well the sled handled transitions from powder to hardpack while side-hilling.

On more than one occasion, while attempting to cross hardpack tracks while sidehilling, I've been spit off the sled because the machine got so upset. On the SKS, I made these transitions easily, and the sled absorbed the changing snow conditions with minimal upset. The only challenge I encountered on the SKS when sidehilling was when riding super steep or marginal terrain. In these conditions, the shorter track of the SKS tends to want to wash out and direct the sled further uphill. This tendency can easily be countered, though, by careful counter steering and throttle management. ​

Weight
Was the extra weight of the crossover sled noticeable? Not to me, but I've always ridden sleds that have been comparable in weight and have never ridden a mountain sled with a marketed weight in the low 400s. 

Cooling
I love to keep my engine happy, so I like to ride with my display showing RPM and coolant temp. In deep powder and on full power pulls, coolant temps were a steady 95 degrees. The only time coolant temps increased were on the trails. Freshly groomed, icy trails were the worst, causing temps to climb as high as 135 degrees, still below any programmed display warnings. Trails with some loose snow resulted in temps somewhere in the middle of the two extremes depending on how much loose snow was available. Cooling the machine off when it reaches high temps is a simple matter of finding some powder so the heat exchanger can do its job. Proceeding forward, I'll likely add scratchers to the skid to aid cooling on icy trails.
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On start-up, the factory display has a cold engine warning, which I love. The display lets you know how warm the engine temp should be before you start riding. This feature is fantastic because so much damage can occur to engines that aren't warmed up properly. 

Suspension
I chose not to alter the suspension on my sled ahead of riding in the backcountry. My rationale for this was simple. I wanted to establish a baseline for how the sled handled and didn't find anything that bothered me during my Midwest rides. I probably add about 210lbs to the sled when fully geared and packed for those of you interested.

I would call the factory suspension settings "the middle of the road" with adjustability in either direction when it comes to shock preload and how the suspension is set to transfer weight. While I'd like to explore making some adjustments, I can't say right now whether doing so will result in improved climbing or other attributes. At this point, all I can say is that it seems like there is a fair amount of adjustability so that riders can configure the sled to their liking.
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The most significant difference I noticed between my SKS and other mountain sleds I've ridden is how much more compliant the rear suspension feels. The SKS features the IGX rear skid, which is quite a bit heavier than pure mountain skids; however, with it comes a much better rear suspension when dealing with bumps and changing terrain. When I ride the SKS, I get the sensation that the rear end is firmly planted and in contact with the ground when crossing rough terrain, whereas, with mountain skids, I feel like the roughness of the terrain is being passed right into me. ​

​I hope you’re as excited as I am for all the cool projects that are just around the corner! Be sure to sign up for my emails so you can stay up to date!